Ladakh in 8 days: a slow Leh, Nubra, Turtuk and Pangong route

Two easy days in Leh, then a gradual climb through Nubra and Turtuk before Pangong Tso. The route, permits, shared taxis and real costs.

8 days

Duration

₹2,000–2,700

Daily budget

Jun – Sep

Best season

~5,300 m

Highest pass

Moderate

Difficulty

Most Ladakh itineraries race to Pangong Tso on day two. It looks efficient on paper, but Leh already sits at about 3,500 m, and the lake is higher still. This route takes the slower way: two easy days in Leh, then a gradual climb through Nubra and Turtuk before the lake. You see more, and you feel a lot better doing it.

It works by shared taxi and bus, with homestays most nights. Here’s the plan, what it costs, and the things worth knowing before you book a flight.

Why acclimatisation comes first

Acute mountain sickness (AMS) has nothing to do with fitness. Fly into Leh and your body needs time to adjust to the thinner air. Headaches, nausea and poor sleep in the first 48 hours are common; pushing over a 5,000 m pass before you’ve adjusted is how mild symptoms become serious ones.

Rest completely on day one. No sightseeing, no bike rental.
Drink plenty of water and skip alcohol for the first few days.
Sleep lower than the highest point you reach that day.
If symptoms get worse instead of better, go down. Descent is the treatment.

Talk to your doctor before the trip if you have a heart or lung condition, or if you’re considering preventive medication.

Backpacker tip

Book your first two nights in Leh before you fly and plan nothing else for those days. It feels like wasted time; it is the reason the rest of the trip goes well.

The 8-day route

Day 1 · Arrive in Leh. Check in and rest. A short evening walk in the old town is fine if you feel good.

Day 2 · Leh old town and Shanti Stupa. Easy walking: Leh Palace, the old town lanes and sunset at Shanti Stupa.

Day 3 · Sham Valley. A day trip west along the Indus to Likir and Alchi monasteries and the Indus–Zanskar confluence. You return to Leh to sleep.

Day 4 · Over Khardung La to Nubra. Cross Khardung La (roughly 5,300 m) and drop into Nubra Valley. Spend the evening at the Hunder dunes and stay in Hunder or Diskit, both around 3,100 m.

Day 5 · Turtuk. Follow the Shyok river to Turtuk, a Balti village that only opened to visitors in 2010. Apricot orchards, stone houses and a completely different culture from Leh. Stay in a homestay.

Day 6 · Shyok road to Pangong Tso. Head back down the valley and take the Shyok route via Agham to Pangong Tso (about 4,225 m). This road is rough and can close after landslides, so check conditions in Diskit the evening before.

Day 7 · Pangong sunrise, back to Leh. Watch the lake change colour at sunrise, then return to Leh over Chang La.

Day 8 · Depart. Morning flights out of Leh are the most reliable.

Permits and fees

Indian travellers pay a Ladakh environment fee plus a small daily wildlife fee, applied for online through the LAHDC permit portal. The receipt works as your permit for Nubra, Turtuk and Pangong. Carry a few printed copies and your ID; checkposts sometimes ask for paper.

Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit arranged through a registered travel agent. Rules and fees have changed several times in recent years, so check the official portal or the DC office in Leh before you go.

Getting around

Shared taxis to Nubra leave from Leh in the early morning, and there are scheduled government buses to Diskit and to Pangong on certain days of the week. For the Nubra to Pangong leg via Shyok there’s little public transport, so most travellers share a taxi with others they meet in Hunder or Diskit. Ask at your guesthouse the day before; drivers often look for passengers to fill seats.

What it costs

Here’s a realistic range for one person sharing rooms and taxis. Prices rise in July and August, and private cabs will roughly double the transport line.

Item (per person)	Approx. cost	Notes
Stays, 7 nights	₹6,000 – 9,000	Guesthouses and homestays, twin sharing
Food	₹3,500 – 4,500	Homestays usually include dinner and breakfast
Local transport	₹5,000 – 7,500	Shared taxis and buses; more if you hire a private cab
Environment & wildlife fees	₹550 – 650	Paid online through the LAHDC portal
Total, 8 days	₹15,000 – 21,500	Excludes flights to Leh

When to go

June to September is the main season. The high passes are usually open, homestays are running and the weather is settled. July and August are the busiest months. September is quieter and colder at night, especially at Pangong, where temperatures drop below freezing.

What to pack

Warm layers, including a down jacket for Pangong nights
Sunglasses, sunscreen and lip balm; the sun is strong at altitude
A refillable water bottle (many guesthouses offer filtered refills)
Cash, as ATMs are limited outside Leh and mobile signal is patchy in Nubra and at Pangong
Printed permit copies and photo ID

Signal and cash

Postpaid connections from the bigger networks work best in Ladakh, and coverage outside Leh is limited. Withdraw enough cash in Leh for the Nubra and Pangong days.

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