The Journal
Stories from the long way round
Trip reports, route guides and budget breakdowns, written on the road and updated when things change.
Featured story · 9 min read
A cancelled flight in the fog, a perfect one the next morning, and a scooty ride to Rajgundha on a road that felt like a path to heaven. Four days solo in Bir, with every rupee I spent.
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Fresh from the road
Leh in two days: an easy acclimatisation plan
Your first 48 hours in Leh decide how the rest of your Ladakh trip goes. Here is a gentle two-day plan that still shows you the best of...
Jodhpur’s blue city on foot
Mehrangarh at opening time, the blue lanes of Brahmpuri, Toorji ka Jhalra and the clock tower market: a walking day in Jodhpur.
Munnar’s tea country on foot
Skip the viewpoint-hopping taxi tour. Munnar is best explored slowly on foot, through tea estates, misty ridges and small hill villages.
Mount Batur sunrise trek: what to expect
A pre-dawn climb up an active volcano for sunrise over Bali’s lake and mountains: timings, difficulty and what to pack.
Fort Kochi in a day: a slow walking route
Chinese fishing nets at sunrise, old churches, spice warehouses and Jew Town: a one-day walking route through Fort Kochi and Mattancherry.
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Quiet coves, ferries and island-hopping routes.
Culture & heritage
Forts, temples, markets and the food around them.
Budget backpacking
Day-by-day costs and how to cut them.
Field notes
Routes, budgets and the odd bad bus ride, twice a month.
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